November 18, 2007

We didn’t need to do an 11 month road trip to the Panama Canal in order to visit Napa Valley. But it made the wine taste that much better.

We had stopped in Sonoma on the way south in January, and had been taken with the charm of the Sonoma Plaza area, which was basking in hot sunshine at the time.

But our Sonoma stop just couldn’t compete with the breathtaking fall colours in the Napa Valley in November. The orange, red and yellow hues on the vines imbued the entire valley with a warm autumn glow.

We started at the south end at the somewhat sterile town of Napa, which left us feeling a bit cold.

We nonetheless bookmarked the close by Skyline Wilderness Park, which allows camping ($15/night), as a possible overnight option before venturing up the east side of the valley on the Silverado Trail.

Our first stop, fittingly, was Silverado Vineyards. And while its tasting room offered a great view, it felt a bit tightly wound for us (although not snooty).

The VW van wine tour next touched down at the acclaimed V. Sattui winery, in St. Helana. They have differentiated themselves by not selling any of their wines in stores or restaurants, only in their large store.

V. Sattui also has a delectable gourmet deli and cheese shop and we stocked up on supplies for what would be our last dinner in the van. Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in Yountville, and its Michelin Three Stars, would have to wait for another trip.

Bothe Napa Valley State Park, where we ended up, is a second camping option in Napa Valley. It is off Highway 29, north of St. Helena (not too far north from V. Sattui ) on the way to Calistoga.

(There is also camping in at the Napa Country Fairgrounds in Calistoga and at the Lake Berryessa area, which is in eastern Napa County a 45 drive from Napa Valley).

There were only a handful of other hardy souls in the forested campgrounds when we pulled in just after dark and we spent our second to last evening on the road, cozy in the van drinking rich wines and toasting our good fortune.

Soon after breakfast the next morning we headed out again to sample from the cluster of wineries near the campgrounds.

We were too early for Sterling Vineyards and its celebrated aerial tram tour, and so settled for a tasting at nearby Cuvaison.

From there, we made a return visit to V. Sattui and although were tempted to spend the day eating aged cheeses and drinking deep wines at their lovely picnic area, we knew we better move on.

And so, after a final stop at the hipster Plumpjack winery, which is owned by Gavin Newsom, the mayor of San Francisco, we drove away from the Valley with a slight glow on our faces and box full of wine on our floor.

But there was one final treat in store for us before the deadening drive up the I-5 Highway.

The picturesque Highway 128 from Napa Valley, past Lake Berryessa, and out to Highway 505 was as interesting a drive as we had been on the entire trip. It rivals British Columbia’s breathtaking Duffy Lake Road, which has long been one my favourites drives.

Key Facts & Figures:

-Bothe Napa Valley State Park: $20/night