September 21, 2007

After a month of laying low at the Chilamate Rainforest Eco Retreat, we had become soft, and the idea of getting back on the road, crossing chaotic borders and dealing with corrupt cops was a bit daunting.

It was also difficult for us to say goodbye to Meghan, Davis and Lluvia, our friends and the enthusiastic proprietors of the soon to be open Chilamate Rainforest Eco Resort.

From Chilamate it is an easy two hour drive west to La Fortuna and Volcan Arenal. We spent the afternoon soaking at Los Laurels, the budget thermal hot springs that we had enjoyed so much on our way south. In the evening, we drove back to Cabinas Sissy, where we camped again for the night.

The next night we stayed in Liberia, which is 70 kilometers south of the Costa Rica/Nicaraguan border and home to Costa Rica’s second international airport. It is a busy crossroads, as travelers turn off the Interamerican Highway here to reach spectacular Gunacaste coastline.

There is a campsite in Liberia – the Delfin Trailer Park - at the north end of the city that is visible from the Interamericana Highway. But there were no other campers there, no vigilante (security guard) during the night and the grounds were partially underwater due to the heavy rains.

We took a pass and stayed instead at the Hotel Posada del Tope. It had secure parking, the rooms were reasonably clean and came with a TV and there was an extremely nice woman at the front desk. The shared bathrooms were the only drawback.

About half way between Liberia and the border is the turnoff to Santa Rosa National Park. We considered venturing in to see the sea turtles nestling, until the ticket both attendant advised us that it was a three-hour walk from the parking lot to the beach, and that there was no guarantee how many, if any, turtles we would see.

The headache inducing Penas Blancas border is the most congested, chaotic and confusing border in Central America. Bar none.

Buses stuffed with people everywhere, including one that unceremoniously bumped into the rear of our van. Tractor trailers spewing noxious fumes block the road and the entrances to the parking lot. Aggressive “guides” and money changers that swarm your vehicle as soon as you stop. Ridiculously long lines of people - particularly on the Costa Rican side - waiting to get their passports stamped the immigration office.

In order to make the crossing more bearable, we opted to use “guides” on both sides. If nothing else it is worth it because they pay off the guards so that we avoid much of the line at the immigration office.

The process was:

1) Pull into the first building and give the Costa Rican customs office our vehicle registration and obtain a slip of paper;

2) Pull forward and park, go inside to the immigration office to get our passports stamped and fill out our tourist cards;

3) Pay our Costa Rican guide ($6);

4) Drive out of Costa Rica, giving a slip of paper to the official at the gate;

5) Drive through the fumigation stand ($3);

6) Park on the Nicaraguan side, and fill in the form for the vehicle that is similar to a tourist card. Have the form signed by some official that our guide directed us to;

7) Get the same form signed by a police officer;

8) Go inside the main building and buy our vehicle insurance ($12);

9) In the same building have our passports stamped/fill in the tourist cars ($7 each);

10) Wait for the official to register our vehicle;

11) Pay our Nicaraguan guide ($8).

12) Pull forward to the exit and give the official the form that has now been signed twice

13) Pay the municipal tax ($2)

Given the work involved, crossing any border in Central America leaves you feeling a sense of accomplishment.

And for us, after laying low for so long, we felt this doubly so. It also started the count - one crossing down! – until we were safely back home.

Within 10 minutes of crossing the border, we had driven around a swollen pig, a pack of cows, and a team of oxen pulling a cart, all on the highway.

There was no mistaking it. We were back in Nicaragua.

Key Facts & Figures:

-campsite, Cabinas Sissy: $6/night
-Los Laureles hot springs: $6/person
-Hotel Posada del Tope: $14/night

Costa Rica Border:

-Guide $6

Nicaraguan Border:

-Guide $8
-Vehicle Insurance: $12
-Immigration: $7 person
-Fumigation: $3
-Municipal tax: $1/person